Having just opened their doors late this October, Lucky Hank’s is the most recent addition to Edgartown’s restaurant scene. Located in a freshly renovated former home at 218 Upper Main Street, they are now serving breakfast, lunch and dinner, Tuesday through Sunday. The dining space is bright and inviting, featuring light colored wood and a bar counter with a view of the open kitchen. Hank’s also sports a semi enclosed back porch that is sure to be a hit during the warmer months.
If you are curious as to the restaurant’s name, it turns out that Lucky Hank is a character in one of owner Doug Smith’s favorite novels,
Straight Man.by Richard Russo.
The Cranberry Walnut French Toast is served with syrup and butter, but we found that it didn’t really need them, as the dish had a great balance of flavors on its own. Sprinkled with just enough powdered sugar, the thick cut toast was much lighter than expected, with a delicate, almost custard-like texture in the center, while still retaining some crispiness along the edges. Chunks of walnut added a bit of crunch and an earthy flavor that contrasted nicely with the bright, tart cranberry preserve spread on the toast. In addition, dried cranberries provided an occasional pop of acid that cut through the sweetness.
As much as we like trying crazy new food, we’re also suckers for the classics, so we had to try the Eggs Benedict at Hank’s. It did not disappoint. Beautifully poached, the eggs were bright white with just the right amount of jiggle to them. The yolks ran slowly when cut into, soaking into the toasted English muffin below. The hollandaise was rich and creamy, with a tanginess that spoke to its freshness. Smoky and meaty, the Canadian bacon also provided the saltiness in the dish, bringing out the other flavors without overpowering them. Sprinkled with fresh herbs, the home fries were well-browned and crispy on the outside, but still yielding and almost creamy on the inside. Served with bits of fried onions that added some sweetness, they were perfectly seasoned, with just the slightest hint of heat. Ketchup was optional, but not really necessary, and we never felt the need to add salt or pepper to any part of the dish.
Devils on Horseback are Black Mission Figs stuffed with blue cheese, wrapped in bacon and served with mixed greens and a fig balsamic. The combination of flavors works extremely well, salty, smoky, fatty bacon offsetting the sweetness of the figs and melding with the creamy, pungent cheese to create an incredibly tasty and balanced appetizer. The balsamic echoes the fig flavor, and bits of fresh dill perk up the greens.
Let’s face it, many restaurants in New England serve cod cakes, and most of them simply aren’t that good. Hank’s lists their Cod Cakes as “local cod, fresh greens & lobster tartar” a simple description that doesn’t begin to describe how good they are. They have a crisp breaded exterior and a light, almost creamy interior. There is none of the funky “fishy” flavor that many fish cakes can exhibit, just a fresh ocean taste. The cakes included small amounts of diced onions, and was seasoned with tarragon and chives. Topped with tartar containing chunks of lobster and chopped pickle, the sauce complimented the cakes, adding both richness and acidity.
Hank’s menu includes Diver Scallops served with parsnip puree & chips, turmeric cauliflower and leek beurre blanc, but we were lucky enough to sample a version of the dish made with local bay scallops instead. The dish has an incredible range of textures, crispy parsnip chips, crunchy leeks and smooth puree. Barely sautéed, the bay scallops are sweet and creamy, with a hint of the sea. The buttery sauce matched the richness of the fresh scallops, and provided a subtle leek bite, while the parsnip puree brought a little bit of sweetness to the plate.
Lucky Hank’s menu focuses on, for lack of a better term, “Comfort food” with dishes like meatloaf and lobster pot pie, just the thing for a cold winter night. We’re looking forward to exploring Hank’s menu this winter and dining on their patio next summer.
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